Genevieve's Tales of Pillage, Piracy, and Other Fun Stuff

Why Haven't I Been Blogging?

2008-09-24T17:26:00.001+08:00

Many people have asked....

Well, I feel like things are happening too fast out here and there's just not enough time (or the most stable internet connection) to keep up the running, rambling commentary. There's so much to digress on-- I should document things better. Hah. Or maybe the novelty of being the historian of my own life in the trenches has worn off.

Anyway, I think this blog has reached some kind pictorial critical mass as a travel picturebook (which I'm not too thrilled about), so I hope to spark things up a bit once I get certain life decisions in order and on to a newer, snarkier one. Wait for it!

MIA

2008-06-23T09:37:00.002+08:00

Yeah, I know. I've gone dark for about 2 months now. My usual updates to the blog have dwindled in the last couple of months anyway, until I've only been posting pictures with limp, terse captions-- and none of the ramblings that this blog was supposed to house. I'll be trying in the next couple of weeks to stretch my chatter muscles again. In the meantime, my apologies for the quiet static.

Healthy

2008-04-29T16:33:00.001+08:00

As a pledge to be healthy this summer, we started cooking more at home instead of buying takeout at the outdoor eateries or restaurants. I also recently started frequenting the Thirsty stand in the local Gaisano for their carrot juice. They throw in about 10 or so carrots into a juicer and out comes my juice, a brilliant orange, yummy but loaded with the good stuff. It's not terribly cheap at around 90 pesos for a large so I go just 2 or 3 times a week. I'm now adding Yoga classes to the mix. 2 hour sessions at the Ananda Marga Wellness Center in Cebu for 2 months for 1000 pesos. I've signed up for the beginning course and also reserved spots for Kith and Grace (branch bookkeeper). I already try to do some pilates and yoga in the morning before work but it would be nice to have more structured sessions.

Boating around Guimaras

2008-04-29T13:37:00.010+08:00

Early Sunday morning, I asked one of the local fishermen for the use of his fishing outrigger. A small boat, which rocked in the waves, it took us around the perimeter of Nueva Valencia, which was beautifully adorned with caves and rock formations that reminded me of the remnants of ancient sea creatures. The island seems to rest on ancient coral gardens. Later in the morning, we reached a fisheries research center and I got to see bangus and giant lapu-lapu breeding areas and other aquaculture projects.

For more info, check out the province's web page-- offers list of options on where to stay/what to see from island resorts (Isla Naburot, where I had planned to stay is highlighted, but it's relatively pricey at 5000 php per person per night).

Early morning breakfast -- mango and ibos (sticky rice concoction). Mangoes were only 50 pesos per kilo and they really do live up to their reputation!

We headed out at around 7 am.

Guimaras: Beaches and Mango

2008-04-29T11:27:00.007+08:00

Despite stormy clouds and a big downpour on Friday in Iloilo, I decided I had to push through with my weekend trip to Guimaras. Undaunted, I kept my eye on the prize: beaches and the sweetest mangoes on earth. The 15 minute pump boat ride from the Iloilo port made it easy.

I ended up staying at Clearwater Beach Resort, a tiny, family-owned place situated in Nueva Valencia in Barangay Dolores near the Guisi Lighthouse, about 1 hour south from the Jordan wharf. The resort only has 5 nipa-cottage type rooms and the bathroom is shared. You can take a multicab (Fare was steep, around 600php, but Guimaras has very little public transportation heading to Dolores, so you have little options. If you have your own motorcycle, you can transport it from the city on the pumpboat). Knowing how remote the resort was, I made sure to stop by the public market and pick up some fresh seafood. I asked the caretakers to cook the fish and crabs -- all I paid was the a small cooking fee and voila! Freshest seafood that doesn't break the bank.

Microfinance Refresher Course for Field Officers

2008-04-29T10:02:00.005+08:00

The expansion phase of the group vs. individual liability lending project has encountered problems along the way. After Bohol, Carcar and Leyte, we decided to extend the project westward, finding ourselves in Bacolod and Roxas branches around the time I took over the reins last year.

But in general we've been having difficulties getting to all the barangays, or villages, in the center assignment list. And now center generation has slowed from a trickle to a complete stop. Recently management decided to freeze all new loan releases at branch level and to give it 1-2 months to build up their loan reserves. Current clients can avail of re-loans but no new clients. Bacolod and Roxas aside, we are just about to enter Toledo on the other side of Cebu, but right now operations will be pushed back. The bank is also worried about the proportion of secured loans to unsecured. It's quite lopsided and puts the bank at enormous risk. The ripples from the economic downturn are making everyone edgy, even at the rural banks.

There's also the PAR (portfolio at risk) issue. Double-digit PAR has been plaguing the branches in Western Visayas, which makes everyone edgy about the project, particularly the individual liability product we're trying to evaluate. It just happens that our centers that have individual liability also happen to have Development Officers who bucked training and policies. In one area, one DO was conducting credit and background checks over the phone, without ever visiting client businesses, center meetings were being disregarded. It's our bad luck that this DO was mis-managing individual liability centers, which makes the microfinance supervisors and branch managers resentful of the new product.

At the training, I presented to BMs, DOs in our project areas, and supervisors the details about the project and the concept of random control trials so they could see why sticking to policies is critical. At times it felt like I was facing a firing squad or witch hunting court in Salem. Even with the head of MFU at my side, many attacked, decrying the product as the reason why centers failed. I countered that much of the project implementation in problem areas was non-existent so in fact it made no sense to attribute the failures of centers to the product. In the end, I'm not sure their anxieties were mollified much. Many can stomach that repayment rates may be no different between the two products but in reality they think that mispayment hits individual liability centers harder because it puts the onus on the DO to make collections (before they could rely on the joint liability structure and ask center members to cover a mispayment). We'll need to look at the data again, maybe run some activity based costing record keeping before we can safely draw conclusions.

Fun and tense 2 days:

Planning the next getaway: Guimaras

2008-04-19T16:38:00.006+08:00

After our refresher training for micro credit officers next weekend in Iloilo city, I'm planning on visiting Guimaras, an island 20 minutes from the city and home of the best-tasting mangoes in the world (the carabao mango)! I've been checking out a few places on the web, and an interesting blog caught my eye. I'm not sure I'm ready for a REAL rustic experience, especially in the middle of the summer (that means, NO AC!), but I'm tempted. Here's an excerpt from the blog:

I had heard about Isla Naburot many times in the past. It’s different, they’d say. No electricity, not even a pesky sounding generator. Just kerosene lamps at night. The cottages recycled from old wooden floors. Really not much to do there. But the food, ah the food, is great, they’d all say.

Cooking More...

2008-04-14T16:39:00.007+08:00

Kith and I finally buckled down and made more time to cook dinners at home. To get us motivated, we invited people over and these get-togethers did the trick. We wanted to impress people with our culinary feats. In this dinner, we roasted scallops and doused them with butter and cheese. I made a vegetable couscous dish with Greek feta. A side of avocado salad completed it.

New Haircut

2008-04-14T10:16:00.004+08:00

For the longest time, it seemed I was sporting doll hair. Long, wavy tresses that felt, when sticking to my neck and scalp in the heat, like a weighty head scarf around my head. As a pony tail, it looked depressed-- or looked unnervingly bouncy as if i were some ridiculous high school cheerleader. I didn't mean to let it grow as long as it I did, but I was lazy and stayed away from hair salons for what seemed months. So now it's all gone. I had it cut off. The stylist was strangely stoic as I described my plight in the black high chair. He just nodded gravely, said, yes, it would be flattering. Fine. Snip snip later, I'm sporting a (chic) shiny bob that, in salon parlance, 'reflects light'. I like it. It feels severe and focused. Like I can kick some ass.

Choice Rationalization or Just Plain Odds?

2008-04-10T18:26:00.004+08:00

An interesting NYTimes article talks about the methodological flaw uncovered by Yale's Keith Chen, an economist who wrote a paper on rationalization and choice and challenges the basis for many psychological experiments. Here's an excerpt:

The Monty Hall Problem has struck again, and this time it’s not merely embarrassing mathematicians. If the calculations of a Yale economist are correct, there’s a sneaky logical fallacy in some of the most famous experiments in psychology.

He says researchers have fallen for a version of what mathematicians call the Monty Hall Problem, in honor of the host of the old television show, “Let’s Make a Deal.” Here’s how Monty’s deal works, in the math problem, anyway. (On the real show it was a bit messier.) He shows you three closed doors, with a car behind one and a goat behind each of the others. If you open the one with the car, you win it. You start by picking a door, but before it’s opened Monty will always open another door to reveal a goat. Then he’ll let you open either remaining door.
Suppose you start by picking Door 1, and Monty opens Door 3 to reveal a goat. Now what should you do? Stick with Door 1 or switch to Door 2?

Interestingly enough: Writing extensively on behavioral economics, Chen has done studies using monkeys and monitoring their behavior when it comes to risk-taking and aversion. A few of these articles have appeared in the Economist. I vaguely remembered reading them years ago and was fascinated that there this whole world of behavioral economics. Catch the articles here if you want some cool reads...

Funny stuff

2008-04-04T18:18:00.006+08:00

A "webcomic of romance, sarcasm, math, and language". Brilliant: http://xkcd.com/ Here's a few:

Poring Hot Springs, Mt Kinabalu

2008-04-01T13:55:00.008+08:00

[stories and captions to come...]

Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, Sepilok

2008-04-01T12:59:00.007+08:00

[stories and captions to come...]

Sepilok Jungle Lodge

2008-04-01T12:13:00.007+08:00

[stories and captions to come...]

Off to Malaysia; Sipadan Island off of Seporna

2008-04-01T12:04:00.009+08:00

OK, the tale of what happened on the Malaysia trip. Malaysia was overall an awesome experience. But it wasn't all smooth sailing.

The night before the adventure began, I flew to from Cebu to Manila. I arrived on the last flight that night and had to fight to get a taxi (I ended up sharing a cab with a guy-- we were kindly brought downstream away from the airport by another taxi service and from there flagged down a cab. I paid 150- a little bit more than i would have paid with just the meter but I didn't put up a fight). T stayed over at the condo in Pasay City, where watched we passed the time watching unbelievably unrealistic reality shows.

The next morning, we were out the door by 9:30 am on our way to Megamall where were would catch the Philtranco bus to Clark Air Base. Satoko met up with us at Pancake House where we took our breakfast, loading up on full-on rice meals plus pancakes-- for dessert! (we planned on skipping lunch). By 12:30 pm we were on our way. The bus ride was quick. 2 hours and we were out in the middle of Pampanga flatlands. Bright and sunny. Nothing for miles. It used to be U.S. military base and the surrounding areas were mostly giant entertainment complexes (KTV, bars, restaurant buffet courts). Our flight wasn't for about 2-3 hours so we pined away at the meager waiting area. Frustratingly, Air Asia gave us a hard time with our luggage. We hadn't planned on checking anything in since we were scheduled to catch a flight as soon as we landed in Kota Kinabalu. At the check-in counter, we asked about certain carry-on items and the agent gave us the OK. Once we got to through security, we got a different story. Our bags got flagged-- we were carrying dangerous and highly explosive contact cleaning solution! It so happens that we all visually challenged and wear lenses so you can imagine the uproar we caused trying to make a pass with our gear. The rule is no containers with more than 100ml of liquid. Containers! So you could have half empty bottles, with barely any liquid left, but it won't pass. For the most part, airport security in the Philippines hadn't been so anal about this rule-- mainly because it's ridiculous. But Clark apparently didn't get the memo. We were harassed and scolded for flouting airport security. Strangely, they made no case against our water bottles. So ridiculous!

Finally on our way to KK...The 2 hour flight brought us down into a stormy and rain soaked Malaysia! The skies looked bruised and resentful, and we dodged rain puddles on the way to the terminal. We escaped immigration (I got cross-examined; was it my U.S. passport? My sour look?) and hopped inside a taxi and headed over to the domestic terminal for our flight to Tawau in the south. Arriving in Tawau, we almost missed our flight but were saved by a delay. An hour later we were in Tawau, searching for our driver-- who never arrived! We scrambled but finally made a personal arrangement with some random hotel/resort driver who agreed to make a separate stop at our budget pension house before dropping off his load of resort-bound travelers. We paid about 80 MYR for the three of us. The drive took another 2 hours or so through the pouring rain.

When we arrived in sleepy Seporna we discovered that everything was closed! It felt like a ghost town. We eyed the KFC- the only open resto on the dark streets. After checking-in and dumping our bags, we headed back out only to discover that KFC had closed already!! We were desperate and we pounded on the sealed doors. Maybe they took pity on us, wet and starving as we were. The fastfood manager opened the doors and all we could we do was mouth and sign, 'food' and 'hungry' in gestures that could have won us awards in games of Charades. She directed us to back alley areas where she said there would be small eateries. We found niche establishments still open so we headed there and found places with small kitchens, smoky with spices and flavors making our mouths water. The locals were sympathetic. We were shown a plastic table set inside a small wooden building with dirt floors . No menu existed and we had to describe what we could eat. We ended up up with a stirfried, breaded chicken and noodle dish, as well as cucumber salad. A feast nonetheless. We hadn't eaten since breakfast. We paid 15 MYR for dinner. Satiated, we bought water to go from a lady who was half Filipino and spoke Tagalog (yay!) and headed back to our rooms. The clock blinked 1am. Overflowing with food i didn't actually get to sleep until 2am or so. At this point, I was already feeling the cold and congestion in my chest start to take over....

****

SIPADAN! T signed up for diving and S and I stuck to snorkeling. We arranged the boat and service with the outfit, Scuba Junkie, run mostly by Aussies.

Overall, the service was OK. I wasn't that impressed with the service, but it's cheap and efficient I suppose, especially if you are diving. Snorkelers get the raw deal. Luckily, S didn't dive and I wasn't left drifting alone on the surface in open waters. Later that day, I got into a little snarl with one of the dive masters....it wasn't a brawl but I didn't mince words....[to be continued]

Next Week's Easter Vacation: Sabah, Malaysia

2008-03-12T13:29:00.006+08:00

The plan:
Next week, we catch Air Asia on Wednesday evening from Clark Air Base north of Manila and fly into Kota Kinabalu in Eastern Malaysia. From there, we fly Malaysian Airlines to Tawau in Sabah. The following morning we we head to Sipadan-- a
marine sanctuary and protected area where we had to get permits in advance to visit. We'll be spending a day there snorkeling. We've made arrangements through http://www.scuba-junkie.com/ for our accommodations and permits. For more pics, check out: http://flickr.com/search/?q=sipadan

?? After that, our travel itinerary is up in the air. We could go to a orangutan sanctuary or head to Sibuan for more diving. We head back to Clark from Kota Kinabalu on Sunday evening. Happy Easter! Who needs the Easter bunny when you have turtles and barracudas!?! I can't wait.

Maasin, Leyte

2008-03-12T12:43:00.006+08:00

Kith and I visited some of the tourist sites in his hometown.

The steps leading to the Virgin Mary shrine that overlooks the city.

Almost there. Stopping to catch my breath and take in the view.

Maasin sits right at the tip of Southern Leyte and hugs the coastline.

The pier where I'll be taking the overnight ship back to Cebu.

Mama Mary! The torturous ascent ends.

The gardens surrounding the shrine.

Back at sea level, a less celestial mama warms up her brood of chicks. At first I thought it was chicken with 10 legs!

Kith and I take a break for some halo-halo at Superchow resto.

Maasin capital building.

Random pineapple plant!

The town church

My tireless tour guide! We rode around on his motorcycle.

Tangka-an Beach, Padre Burgos

2008-03-12T10:20:00.009+08:00

Beach picnic. The weather was stormy and winds and rains were chilly but the dark clouds against the rocky cliffs produced a nice melancholy atmosphere perfect for a picnic of a different sort. We ate our food sheltered by the cliffs and sat looking out at the water. In the distance you could see Limasawa Island, best known as the historic spot where Ferdinand Magellan landed in 1521 in his circumnavigation of the globe. I didn't do any diving, but Padre Burgos is best known as a jumping off point for some of the most amazing dives in the Philippines-- areas including Limasawa, Sogod Bay, Liloan, and Tagbak Marine Park.

Kith and the Kitties

2008-03-11T20:06:00.005+08:00

My housemate, Kith, is from Maasin. While I was there, he introduced me to his cats...all 5+ of them! And I thought I had too many!

Disco in Maasin

2008-03-11T15:34:00.007+08:00

After the week long tour of Leyte branches in which I monitored for our PhilHealth insurance project with Green Bank, I decided to stay the past weekend in Maasin, the provincial capital of Southern Leyte. I earned a nasty cold from all the traveling and long bus and van rides down the island. The damp, cold weather didn't help either; I didn't see sunshine for 6 days straight (the sun broke slightly on Saturday but the downpours came soon after) and endured treks, ankle deep through flooded streets.

On Friday night, the Branch Manager in Maasin invited me to experience all the night life your typical provincial cities have to offer. We went to a place called 'The Tavern' I think-- a disco/bar on the 3rd floor, with views of the mountains. Here are the crazy antics. I was tired but the goofy staff really brightened my mood. Not to mention the hearty Red Horse brew.

Donald (BM) in white and his staff.

These guys are so polite and quiet at the branch, but as soon as the music started, their inner dance demons were unleashed. Red Horse helped, I suppose.

Small world. The tall guy in the hat is the BM of Hilongos. We also ran into him at the bar.

Looking Ahead in 2008

2008-02-28T15:20:00.001+08:00

Passing the 1 year mark in the Philippines and having spent the last 6 months managing the expansion of the group vs. lending project to 3 new areas in central and western Visayas, I'm excited that I'll have the opportunity to work on the launch of a new project. It's quite a different story altogether to be involved in a project from its inception-- the rush of designing the experiment-- the round of 'selling' the project to the partner institution through proposals and planning-- and the entry into new areas in the Philippines.

This new venture has us partnered with Green Bank, Inc. again and will be aimed at evaluating the impact of financial training on microcredit clients. Having done grad work in the school of education, it echoes the classic debate topic that has hovered in the backdrop of our economics readings: How do human and financial capital interact? Which has the greatest impact from economic development perspective (what's best for recipients)? Market perspective (what's best for the MFI)? Also when we consider financial education/literacy- is it the actual business and money know-how learned that has the greatest effect or is it 'business values' being inculcated during training? Can business acumen be learned or is it more an in-born sensibility that can only be refined (hopeless business failures cannot be taught to be successful entrepreneurs)? All interesting questions to think about on this project.

At first, Tomoko and I thought it would be as straightforward evaluation as what we did in Peru. Looking at just bank clients and offering compulsory and voluntary training and keeping a control group that received no training offer.

But it looks like the new project has a twist because we will also be looking at non-bank clients, and working with a savings deposit component. While the details are still being ironed out, in general we'll be looking at impact of credit + training vs. credit alone among GB clients, as well as the impact on non-clients. We'll be reworking our project proposal in the next couple of weeks and presenting to the bank owner. In terms of analysis, we'll still be looking at impact on business practices/household outcomes, as well as savings. I'm not sure yet how we'll interact savings and training in this new context though-- whether we will be randomly offering the savings treatments to just training treatment group or to all.

Well, the pressure is on...watching what my colleagues in other projects have gone through, and also the difficulties we faced in Manila when I was still working on the financial diaries , I feel especially sensitive to making sure we come up with the right compliance policies and incentives from the start to make sure the field officers follow the treatments.

***

Project Associate wanted! We're seeking qualified applicants for the position of Project Associate to help implement and monitor the evaluation of microfinance programs and other development initiatives in the Visayas region. The Project Associate will be based in the Cebu area and reports to the regional Project Coordinator in Cebu (me, right now), and Country Director, based in the Butuan, Mindanao. Interested applicants can email me for the complete Terms of Reference.

CamSur Wakeboarding

2008-02-20T17:00:00.003+08:00

Wakeboarding is the next big thing in Camarines Sur, Bicol. We dropped by the CamSur Sports Complex on the way to Naga.

Bicol Tour: Albay, Naga

2008-02-20T14:00:00.014+08:00

The next day after our whale sharp expedition we headed on a road trip through Albay and Naga. Marlon, Green Bank BM in Naga branch generously gave us the tour. We also met up with former IPA'er, Girlie, who's now doing research in the Bicol region (microfinance in disaster areas). It was a dreary, stormy day, and we braved muddy roads and walks in the cold rain. Bicol is known as a typhoon-prone region, jutting out as it does into the Pacific.

Breakfast at a bulalo resto. We ate Bicol specialties- laing and pinangat (all have taro leaves as the main ingredient, along with a spread of crabmeat, coconut milk and chillies). Closed the comfortingly heavy meal with some fresh mango we picked up in Legazpi the day before.

Our first tour stop: Cagsawa Ruins.

"A church and convent used to rise at Cagsawa but with the major eruption of Mayon in 1814, the church was buried beneath the hot lava. The local people of Cagsawa took refuge at the church but they later perished when the church was engulfed by lava—many lives were lost but their memory lives on. Photos of the eruption are sold at the ruins.
To date, only the church bell tower was left which now becomes a popular foreground in many Mayon pictures. Tourists now flock at the ruins to personally view the majestic Mayon and Cagsawa. Large rocks are also scattered at Cagsawa. They are evidence of the fury that Mayon once displayed. The National Museum there preserves the life of people before the Mayon eruption in the 19th century."

Strange what tourists will do despite the historic import of a place. Here's T.

My turn.

Marlon does Hercules at Cagsawa.

The ruins are eerie with Mt. Mayon looming in the distance. Mayon looks sleepy now under the clouds but she's wrecked some devastation over the centuries. Mayon's most recent eruption happened in 2000. Read more here.

***
In the afternoon, the weather wasn't breaking so instead of doing a hike to some waterfalls in the area, we headed to a zoo of sorts and did the cheesy tour. It was interesting to see the motley collection of animals. I felt a bit sorry for most of them-- the enclosures weren't so cheerful or spacious. I wondered how much support the local government gives to the upkeep and care.

A potbellied pig. He was not happy with me disturbing his peace.

Donsol: Swimming with the Whale Shark

2008-02-19T16:59:00.006+08:00

It was quite an experience to visit Donsol, a sleepy coastal town in Sorsogon area of Bicol province. This is where the world's largest fish-- the whale shark (locally called 'Butanding') spend their migratory swim, gulping down the rich water in the bay. The sea near Donsol is basically a big parking lot for these creatures. They mill around and scoop the waters for plankton and 'balaw" (tiny shrimps).

Tomoko and I took a bus out to Legazpi, Bicol, a 12 hour ride from Cubao last Friday night. We arrived early Saturday morning and rushed to meet Mike and Dana, fellow IPA'ers who are based in Manila. They graciously invited us along with their family (Mike's parents were visiting from the States) and we hopped their van and drove out to Donsol from Legazpi. Donsol takes the prize of being the premiere eco-tourist spot for whale interaction activities (declared a 'sanctuary' by the government), though the butanding also ply the channels in other villages.

The boats we board are guided by a crew of navigators and spotters, as well as a BIO (Butanding Interaction Officer), a whale expert guide who gets in the water with us and guides us in front of the path of the swimming whale sharks.

How scary was it? The first time being in the water with them was a shock. They are ponderous and large and while are essentially gentle giants with no interest in humans as food, they are still SHARKS with the silhouette and glide of a shark. They make a sleek and sly presence in the water, despite their size. I didn't even know I was floating right on top of one until I looked down in the water with my snorkel gear. And there I saw the the gunmetal gray body and its tell-tale white spots. It was, well, awesome. I nicked one accidentally with my flipper and it felt like i had grazed a tank. Its tail and body are pretty muscular but they whip with such intensity that you're propelled or repelled in the water depending on where you are in the line of its swim.

Boats ply the waters in search of the sharks but 'dock' a good distance away from them in the water. The BIO then tells us to jump (groups are immersed in staggered fashion), and then coordinates and sends us in the direction the butanding's swimming path. I stayed close to my BIO, holding his hand the entire time in the water. The strong swimmers (Mike and his Dad) tried to keep up and even swam the full circumference underneath the shark and over but even they tired after the 5th jump. The whale sharks aren't racers but they get away in quick twists and arches and disappear as mysteriously as they are sighted.

After the 2nd dip in the water to swim with them, I was less scared and had a better opportunity to observe the depths below. The water was opaque- we had the misfortune of stormy skies and little to no sun-- so you couldn't see much except at the surface. But I did notice in more detail the whale sharks-- their bodies and coloring are striking but what's funny is that they have no razor sharp teeth as you would expect from a shark. They are filter eaters just taking in water into their mouths, sieves that net the small krill and plankton.

If it wasn't for the rumble in my belly (we skipped breakfast) and the cold weather, we could have stayed longer. Amazing.

Some facts:

"Whale sharks can grow up to 50 feet in length. It has a rather wide mouth with hundreds of pointed teeth. It usually comes in grey or greenish brown color with white or yellow spots all over its body.

It earned the label gentle giant of the sea because of its harmless nature, considering it is of the shark family. It has nothing in common with whales except for its size, thus the name. Divers can swim and interact with them and are only known to sink deeper into the ocean when it gets upset. There has been no known attack on humans of whale sharks.

Scientists are still baffled with the large migration of whale sharks in Donsol. These fishes are known to prefer the cold waters, not the tropical seas that we have. One explanation would be the flourishing of planktons in the area. Planktons are organisms that fill the diet of the whale sharks. It is also hard to record the number of whale sharks that now thrive in Donsol. But early studies show that whale sharks can travel 14,000 miles in 40 months and is capable of breeding in different sea environments."

Lunar New Year in Bacolod

2008-02-18T10:06:00.005+08:00

My last field visit to the Green Bank branch in Bacolod was timed right for Lunar New Year. During my down time at the main branch, we were lucky enough to watch the dragon dance organized by the local Chinese community in Bacolod. The pictures below catch the view from the bank.

Gender Gap Rankings

2008-02-11T17:39:00.000+08:00

The Philippines makes the top ten at #6 (overall ranking) out of 151 countries! It tops its income category at #1. The USA is a dismal #31 in its overall ranking and income category. Indexes include:

Economic participation/opportunity (Philippines rank: 2, index score: 78.9% )
Educational attainment (Philippines rank: 1, index score: 100%)
Health/survival (Philippines rank: 1, index score: 98%)
Political empowerment (Philippines rank: 14, index score: 28.3%)

*Note: The Gender Gap Index scores are on a 0 to 1 scale (0.00= inequality, 1.00= equality) but can be roughly interpreted as the percentage of the gender gap that has been closed. For intuitive appeal, they are presented in percentage form in these tables

Download the full report here.

Banilad, Cebu: Fruits, Buddhas, Teacups

2008-02-05T18:55:00.000+08:00

So much for the island getaway. Last Saturday, I had to finalize our survey work with Office of Population Studies, and get sign off from our World Bank advisor on our new data collectin' , as well as catch up with my encoders at the bank on Saturday, so I turned down Nyuel's offer to visit his village in an island off of Bohol (off of Talibon city). They celebrated their town fiesta and it would have a good reason to drink a lot of coconut wine and lay around on pristine sandbars in happy inebriation-- but alas...so on Sunday, I splurged with a little tour around Banilad, a fancier part of Cebu city. Other than the overpriced Japanese food I ate (surrounded by sweaty expat Japanese men recently arrived from the country club in their BMWs) and overly indulgent chocolate cake I ate with my tea, the biggest find of the day was the iCenter at Crossroads! A real deal Apple store in the city! Complete with free wireless internet use, the cool Apple sales guys wearing hipster jeans and t-shirts, and fun floor display of all their latest laptops (damn, the Macbook Pro is GORGEOUS! I WANT! just have to chock up about 3000 dollars) and desktops (dear mother!). I stayed awhile, chatted with the cute boys about how I love my old PowerBook G4), and watched a little bit of their Apple TV (fast forwarded to see all the fight scenes in House of Flying Daggers). Afterwards, I walked around and found an interesting temple and then spent the sunset wandering fruit stands along the road (note: super pricey-- head to the local palengke in Tabo-an or Carbon instead-- not as pretty but who wants to pay 300pesos a kilo for durian!?!)

Sitting at an outdoor cafe drinking TEA!

Happy guy

This, my friends, is Durian! At 300 pesos/kilo, I had to pass you up though.

I bought sugar apple instead (the light purple fruit on the right).

Working with OPS, University of San Carlos

2008-02-02T14:47:00.001+08:00

Our survey work (baseline, follow-up) in the Visayas region is conducted by the Office of Population Studies in University of San Carlos, based in the Talamban campus. In preparation of our launch to expand group vs. individual liability project operations here, I've been meeting with Lorna, project manager for us, and her team from OPS to discuss such things as survey procedures. Over the last two years, the criteria for determining our sample has changed. Does our procedure really cover the sample we want? Is it targeted enough but also flexible? Green Bank official policy says that it offers its micro loans only to businesses that have been in operation for a year (expansion capital vs. start-up capital) and to those businesses that have regular (weekly) revenue streams. However, monitoring has shown that Green Bank will loan to agricultural businesses (with quarterly income), to businesses that are less than 1 year old, and to household members that are not necessarily the ‘owners’ (single, unmarried women) of the business. So we've had to redefine our procedures in the field, establish a screening section and incentive scheme for respondents that will increase our chance to pick up the households that have members that will most likely be potential clients for the bank. The challenge is knowing that the bank doesn't always follow its policies to the letter. We're also working on refining data management, including double encoding

Here's a scene from our last meeting. Not much work going on. We took a break from their wood-paneled offices in Talamban to head to Crossroads in Banilad for a Thai lunch.

Montage of Home Life

2008-02-02T14:32:00.000+08:00

Scenes from the house- Pearl St., Fairview Village.

I'm in love with papaya. I got this baby monster for around 100 pesos. It will probably yield about 10 servings which I will devour in perhaps 4 servings.

Kith helps me out on data encoding on reports we receive from our credit officers. After hours, we move operations to the house.

Our lowly jicama has sprouted into a explosion of green. It's starting to flower. The blossoms are small and purple. You can see them peeping from the top.

Our garden. We also have a few herbs, such as sage, basil, peppermint, and tarragon, which we bought from the Bohol Bee Farm while there.

I Can't Really Sing, But...

2008-01-31T12:50:00.000+08:00

Last weekend, Judith (Kith's friend) invited us to her husband's surprise b-day party somewhere near Ayala center in Cebu at a KTV place. We took over the only room in their small dive bar and took turns passing the mic, drinking Red Horse, and singing cheesy songs on grungy pleather couches.

I sang (or rather, screeched) on the following: 1. New Order's Regret. 2. Toto's Africa 3. Madonna's Who's that Girl and La Isla Bonita. 4. ?'s Cruisin' 5. George Michael's Faith 6. Billy Joel's Uptown Girl. 7. ABBA's Dancing Queen (of course!). 8. Rod Stewart's Do Ya Think I'm Sexy (duet with my embarrassed housemate).

Here are some pics of the party--

Double zeros-- ever coy about his age.

B-day boy

A Ridiculously Short Flight

2008-01-29T14:46:00.000+08:00

Travel to western Visayas is not that difficult, and there are wide ranging options. Take for example my trip to Roxas City in Capiz last week. From Cebu you can do either a land-water trip or fly. The land-water trip is more economical-- but not in terms of time. From Cebu, I would have to take a 2 hour bus to Toledo City and from Toledo catch a 2 hour boat to San Carlos in Negros Occidental. Once at San Carlos, I think I'd have to travel to Iloilo city aboard a 1 hour boat, then from Iloilo take a 3 hour bus ride north to Capiz and to Roxas City.

But if you fly, it's more compressed. There's the 1 hour taxi ride (due to Cebu city traffic) to Mactan airport and then a 30 minute flight from Cebu to Iloilo airport. From there I take a taxi for 1 hour ride on the Ceres bus line to the Tagbak bus station and then board a bus for 3 hours to Roxas city (often because the bus will get at least 1 flat tire).

Yup, the plane ride is ridiculously short. The good thing is that the plane never rises above 12,000 feet I think, and you float under the clouds for some interesting views. During the short flight, I stay glued to my window and marvel at the outlines of the island groupings, watching how central Visayas (which is more rocky) melts into western Visayas (flatter and greener landscapes).

Roxas Monitoring, Visiting Clients

2008-01-29T14:09:00.000+08:00

In a round of monitoring last week, I headed out to Roxas, Capiz in western Visayas to speak to Green Bank clients about their businesses and loans. It's a routine procedure to make sure that the clients have been offered the right product for their assigned areas and thus maintaining our randomization and treatment assignments.

In the beginning of each expansion, during training periods, we constantly beat this commandment into to the neophyte credit officers: 'thou shalt not offer other products or variations of products other than the one assigned to the particular barangay'. It seems easy enough but there's always a confluence of events that may tempt the otherwise committed-to-the-study credit officer to stray and practice renegade center policies. For example, if a branch is facing pressures to improve repayment problems (delinquent loans, past due, etc.), a manager may look the other way and let his/her staff enforce different policies. In our case, since we're comparing group vs. individual liability, we're also faced with a lot of endemic bias. Green Bank has always practiced group liability in its centers, which means center members are co-makers for each other's loans. Liability is shared. In our study, we keep the center process and structure the same (having members meet on weekly basis and making payments out in the open in front of peers) but we remove the group liability. So no more co-makers. We randomize at the barangay or village level so a barangay and it's neighboring barangays (sister villages) will have the same type of center.

What I found in Roxas is that some centers meant for individual liability were showing signs of the 'tapal' system-- the system whereby members cover each other's payments if one member cannot pay.

Later, during a meeting with the DOs to point out their lapses, it was clear they knew they had made a mistake and responded with pleas that they had 'forgotten' and since the loan forms are the same for all types of centers, clients put down co-makers. I got the sense that they were making an honest mistake though it's hard to believe that clients did not react when they were marketed an individual liability product and then found themselves signing comakers on their application forms. Anyway, it was back to the drawing board for me to draw up some kind of enforcement mechanism.

The businesses I observed ranged from small buy-and-sell operations to medium sized grocery stores (larger than a sari-sari store). What I found pretty interesting is that these clients have businesses that follow the harvest season. This means that they'll take breaks here and there (which is probably why they were missed during a baseline sweep of the area-- now working on a survey strategy that will account for that). When it's planting or harvest season, they'll 'close down' or reduce operations of a business and do the wage labor for while, and then go back when they are free again. It's a hard life, and a significant reason why you may see businesses stagnate and not grow, but it's a way for them to ensure steady income into their families. The access to credit may allow them to shift to their businesses more if the additional capital lets them expand to a level that brings in more income.

Here I am at a Group Recognition Training in barangay, Cabugao Este. The GRT is a meeting that occurs before the center officially starts. Bank policies are reviewed and client knowledge is tested. Centers are only for women business owners; the older man in the white shirt is the barangay (village) captain. The credit officer is the little guy to my right.

***

The entrepreneurs I met were all kind and very accommodating to my intrusions and observations. I sat inside little more than thatched huts, kids running around, neighbors peeking inside to get a look at the strange girl speaking English. None of my questions were financial-specific so it didn't take long for people to warm up to me. I asked questions such as, 'how long have you had your business"-- which luckily spiraled into a discussion of on-off business practices. It solved a few mysteries and made me realize that even a bank will break it's own policies to court potential clients (Green Bank is supposed to only offer its loans to those in businesses at least 1 year). During my visits I never traveled alone and went with my good friend and area supervisor, Rhap. The first couple days we rode in a car and the rest of the time we entered the more remote areas with a motorcycle. Rhap was also invaluable in doing most of the navigation. He also gave me piggy-back rides over the gullies and ditches (haha, just kidding!) where the bridge/crossings were nothing more than 3-4 bamboo sticks tied together in a makeshift plank. The days were hot and dry-- better than hot and wet-- because the road and terrain conditions would have surely prevented house-to-house visits.

StickK.com

2008-01-21T18:21:00.000+08:00

Check out this nifty brainchild from our boss, Dean: www.stickK.com. stickK gives you an online forum to publicly declare a goal or objective by letting you create a 'commitment contract' that binds you to a particular promise or resolution you've made for yourself. There are a lot of incentives other than a public declaration. You can even place a bet on yourself if you care more about losing some hard earned cash:

Want to up the ante? Gamble more than your reputation. Place a financial wager on yourself. If you accomplish your goal, you get your money back. If you don’t, your money goes to charity or to someone you’ve designated in advance. (How about to a foe, or to a cause you dislike, for some added incentive?

Putting yourself on stickK.com gives you networking access to others with similar goals (misery loves company...and support!).

I've signed on but still thinking about an elusive goal to wager on...

Happy New Years! With Love from Tokyo

2008-01-05T17:41:00.003+08:00

The trip back to the city from Nikko seemed longer than usual. As we left the mountains and watched the ground turn from snow white to milder winter brown, I felt the stirrings of an itch in my throat and nose that would later blossom to a full blown cold. I still had some energy left in me though, so we did a little touring around the city (mainly to hunt for Citibank and also to buy soba noodles for our new years feast). Maybe it was the calming effect of being doused in 30-40 degree C water and alternatively bracing against blizzard conditions that convinced us a night IN would be a better option to partying until the sun came up. In Japan, New Years is often spent with family so Yu and I played sisters and fashioned a meal at her apartment.

One last look at the lights.

Eerie. The subway trains were near empty around 8pm. I guess most people had already finished their New Years preparations.

Rice cakes! You pop them in the oven while they are still flat and they mysteriously rice into marshmallow like sponges. Good for dipping into soy sauce or tamari.

Our dinner spread. We cheated a bit and bought sushi rolls. For drinks, we had sweet plum wine from the grocery store. I think that's the equivalent of buying box wine but it was pretty damn good! We spent the evening watching flipping channels on the TV, comfy and cozy at home. 2008 arrived and we whooped for about 10 minutes and called it a night!

*** New Year's Day:

We visited Yu's local shrine, about a 30 minute walk from her apartment. Lots of families and muted revelry. We bought a white arrow with a trinket of a mouse attached to it to herald the new year by defending against evil spirits. You're supposed to keep the arrow for a year and then burn it on new year's day when you purchase the next white arrow. Sadly, Yu forgot the arrow of 2007 for incineration at the shrine, but we decided we were kicking some evil spirit butt anyway (we felt pretty tough for surviving Nikko at that point). Here, I am undergoing purification. I wash my hands before entering the shrine area.

Another thing Tokyo-nites excel at besides fashion-- eating! here, Yu and I share some deepfried octopus.

Yum!

***

For lunch, we headed to Yu's grandmother's house in a suburb outside of Tokyo. Her mom prepared an elaborate meal for us. In exchange for their hospitality, I gave them my 'pasalubong' from the Philippines-- three sets of 'malongs'. The presentation of the gifts was a bit funny because I speak no Japanese and her mother and grandmother speak a few English words, but not enough to hold a conversation. Yu acted as our translator. Luckily I didn't have to say much about them-- I don't even know how to wear them or tie them! So I suggested they use the elaborately patterned and designed fabric to cover the wall or use as a throw on the couch. Yu's grandmother was particularly touched and she launched into a talkative spell that amused both Yu and her mother. The matron of the house went on and on about her travels during her younger years, and how she visited the Philippines at one point in her life, reminiscing and extolling the warmness of the people she met. She even said she had a Filipino classmate or two growing up in Kobe. Yu and her mom couldn't vouch for this but I think her grandmother was giving it to me straight.

I've been adopted! Before I left, Yu's family said I was always welcome at their home. We had such a nice time and I can't wait until I go back to visit again!

Nikko - Kegon Falls, Onsen: Day 4

2008-01-05T17:12:00.000+08:00

After our day at Toshogu shrine complex, we headed back to our ryokan, Nikko Hoshinoyado (0288.54.1105), for a nap in warmth of our futons and duvets. At 6pm sharp we received a call that our dinner was ready! Ryokans often prepare elegant meals (usually included in the price), impeccably served.

Yuba! Nikko is world-renowned for it's freshly made yuba. Yuba refers to the 'skin' that is formed when soy milk is heated. Here's a better description of how it is magically made. According to Yu, yuba is known to purify your body, brightening complexions and energizing well-being.

Dessert. Strawberry yuba-based custard!

Kimono time! This was after our onsen experience. Note: I don't have any hot springs moments pics because, well, they wouldn't be post-able (nudity issues)! Here's more info on hot springs.

Relaxed and cheerful after soaking in the special minerals. Our onsen has a special mineral content that heals bruising and burns. We didn't have either of those conditions but it was still pretty soothing.

Tea time! We drank green tea with relish as if it were hard liquor. Banzai!

The next morning, after checking out, we packed our bags in the station lockers and boarded a bus to Kegon Falls, way up in the mountains. Here's the view once we arrived at the station. A tiny little snow-covered town.

I may be smiling but I'm dying from the frigid temps. I was shaking and couldn't stop shivering. I was only wearing Converse sneaks and the my socks were getting wet. We did see many couples though in which the woman was wearing a skirt!!! Diehards to style! Probably visiting from Tokyo. Yu and I both thought they were idiots but then again we weren't doing any better.

I gave Yu my scarf to cover her head from the falling snow. Blizzard conditions.

And thar she blows! Kegon falls. One of Japan's famous waterfalls. You take an elevator through the mountain down about 30 floors to the observation deck.

We took a few pictures in the spirit of tourism but wanted to get the hell out of there as fast as possible. Sooooo cold! I'd clock it at -5 degrees Celsius.

One more look at the mountain's sheer walls before heading topside.

Back in Nikko proper, we warm ourselves with some snacks.

Nikko - Toshogu Shrine: Day 3

2008-01-05T15:32:00.000+08:00

On our way to Nikko!

Yu and I pick out our lunch boxes (bento box) for the train ride up to Nikko. The vendor was pretty shy and didn't want to be in the photo.

Here's my selection.

Mushrooms and salmon with two kinds of rice.

Yu goes for the chicken.

The road up to our onsen ryoken (japanese hotel with hot springs)

Check-in wasn't until 3pm so we dropped off our bags and headed toward the world heritage sites-- the shrines!

On the way we pose in front of a scenic bridge.

On our way to Toshogu shrine. The start of our journey.

It's a long upward trek to enlightenment!

another lovely distraction. dragon fountain.

We're getting close.

Once we're inside the complex, we start with a tour of the garden for some inner peace and contemplation.

Now we begin our climb further upwards towards Toshogu.

All that climbing and the drop in temperature made us want to take a little sweet mung bean soup break.

Here we are! Some historical facts: "The Toshogu is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, which ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868. The shrine is dedicated to the spirits of Ieyasu and two other of Japan's most influential historical personalities, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Minamoto Yoritomo. The lavishly decorated shrine complex consists of more than a dozen Shinto and Buddhist buildings set in a beautiful forest. Initially a relatively simple mausoleum, Toshogu was enlarged into the spectacular complex seen today by Ieyasu's grandson Iemitsu during the first half of the 17th century." from Japan Guide

My favorite. The three monkeys.

And the elephants. Carved an artist who had never seen an elephant (he carved it based on poetry and description only).

Don't mess with him! I love the tiger under his throne.

Detail is pretty amazing. I couldn't take pictures of the interiors, which housed three great buddhas. Wood statues that stand around 10 metres tall it seems. A daunting sight! Anyone interested in Japanese Shinto and Buddhist deities can read this reference.

That's how the courtiers and monks kept warm! The Nikko secret stash!

Souvenir bag in hand.

Back to our hotel, getting ready for onsen. View from lobby.

Touristy Tokyo: Day 2

2008-01-05T13:30:00.000+08:00

The next day, after a good night sleep during which I switched on two heaters and slept under a thick, furry blanket AND a fluffy duvet on a futon atop heated carpet, Yu and I headed out to explore Tokyo, the quintessential postmodern city.

Yu is up bright and early making breakfast. She is laughing at how cold I look taking her picture.

Classic Japanese breakfast-- miso soup. Notice the bag of marshmallows and Columbia University newspaper nearby.

Yu introduces me to 'nato', a fermented bean dish. Not for the faint of heart!

Outside her apartment--cold!

Before heading off to the city we stop by the local grocery store to stock up the fridge. We also plan to cook dinner instead of eat out to avoid the weekend crowds.

Fuji apples. I coudn't resist.

Papayas from the Philippines! But they are a fraction of the size of the papayas I eat, as well as 5 times more expensive. I shocked Yu when I told her my food bill for a typical week. I can't wait to introduce her to the fruits here.

Bananas from the Philippines! Export quality only. Known as the 'Cavendish' variety. Which means not the bananas that the people eat or what you would find in the local market, or 'palengke'.

A hilarious advertisement detailing how bananas from the Philippines reach Japan.

Yu's neighborhood of quaint streets.

After lunch at home, we take the train to downtown Tokyo. here we are in Shibuya looking out to the intersection made famous by Lost in Translation.

Inside Shibuya Station.

One of the more famous spots in Shibuya, the statue of Hachiko, the loyal dog.

Some trivia I found here:

Chu-ken Hachiko (lit. the faithful dog Hachiko) was born in Akita in 1923 and was first brought to Tokyo in 1924. He and his owner, Mr. Eisaburo Uyeno, were inseparable friends right from the start. Each day "Hachi" would accompany Eisaburo, a professor at the Imperial University, to the train station when he left for work. Upon returning, the professor would find the dog patiently waiting, tail wagging. This happy routine continued until one fateful day in 1925, when the professor was taken ill on the job and unfortunately died before he could return home. Despite the fact that Hachiko was less than two years old at the time, the bond between dog and owner was strong. Hachiko continued to wait each day at Shibuya station for a friend who was never coming back. At times, he wouldn't return home for days at a stretch. The Akita became a familiar sight to commuters as he kept his vigil for over ten years. On March 8, 1935, Hachiko finally went to meet his master. He died on the very same spot he last saw his friend alive.

We walk and walk and end up at a dessert place to refuel.

And at an 'oxygen bar' to re-energize.

Not sure it works but it makes for a great photo. We both went for the minty flavors.

We take the train to Harajuku, made famous for the archetype, 'Harujuku girls'. These ladies of whimsical street fashion weren't around as much when Yu and I roamed. For some heated opinions about this cultural phenomenon, check out this article.

It's dark but that's the entrance to Meiji shrine, a holy place right smack in the middle of Harajuku. It unfortunately closed before we got there. Curious? Go here for pictures.

Yu and I keep walking. We duck inside a cellphone store to check out the latest. A popular brand in Tokyo is SoftBank. So many ads everywhere. The Japanese love their cellphones and they have nifty features such as TV! One thing I noticed on the subway was that it was so quiet. Why? The stations and byways are all wired, so everyone has access to the internet, TV. Lots of folks spend their commuting time glued to their phones.

Interesting architecture.

Inside La Foret, a stylish shopping center along Ometesando boulevard. La Foret is seven floors of small boutique glamour that makes up one of the meccas of Japanese fashion. Here's one of their odder displays.

Traditional side-by-side with modern. A juxtaposition that captures the essence of Japan.

Another shopping complex patterned after the Guggenheim with sloping floors.

That's Yu posting in front of a swanky public bathroom.

In front of a police station. Nobody but us understood the irony.

UN in Tokyo!

Back to Shibuya!

Hahaha.

Home sweet home! My futon never looked so comfy. It was a long day.

First Night in Tokyo

2008-01-04T18:22:00.001+08:00

Inevitably it becomes a face-off between every metropolis you've visited in your life. When you've spent a good deal of time in that one iconic city (for me it's NYC and the 'good deal of time' is about a decade), a visit to other cities becomes like a bit of soul searching.

That's how I felt when I landed in Tokyo and immediately felt myself doing mental calculations that compared this city of the future with the cities of my past. My first impression of the city as I burst through immigration (where they took my picture and fingerprints! a new procedure for visitors instituted quite recently) and customs was how convenient everything was. After I rolled out I found all I needed within the span of 5 minutes: ATM to get Japanese Yen; phone card to call my friend, Yu; and the bus counter where I bought my Limo Bus tickets for downtown Tokyo.

I burst through the doors and I was outside. The blast of cold air was a shock, even though I seemed prepared with my jacket and sneakers. I followed the English signs and made it to my stop and bought a sports drink at the ubiquitous Japanese vending machine.

The two hour bus ride took me along the Japanese expressway and then into the heart of Tokyo. Labyrinthian but orderly; cars clogged the roads but it didn't feel like a traffic jam.

The Limo Bus. It leaves on the dot. My bus came exactly 5 minutes after this one at 2:05pm.

I look so naive here, totally unprepared for the chilly weather ahead.

love the vending machines

***

Yu found me strumming through tourist guides at the Tokyo Shibuya Exel Hotel. She had just gotten out of work and was dressed in her corporate best. The hotel itself is attached to the Shibuya station, which itself is a nice little shopping complex, swankier than most upscale shopping areas in the States. We shared a verging-on-tearful reunion (lots of squeals) and headed to her house-- just about 6 stops from Shibuya station.

Yu lives in her family apartment in a quiet neighborhood in Tokyo. There's even Mickey D's! Looking around it's hard to believe you're still in the city but the night sky drowned by city lights reminds you.

Bicycles are very common in the smaller neighborhoods.

***

For dinner, we opted for easy and local so we scoped out her local ramen shop. ramen shops in Tokyo are huge-- according to Yu they even rank ramen restaurants and many a devotee abound who scour the four corners of Japan for the essence of raman. The Ramen with a capital 'R'.

I don't think our place is ranked but to me it was one of the richest bowls of steaming hot noodle soup I had ever eaten. Our shop offered them in various broth bases-- I got the miso base and Yu got the soy sauce base. Everything was seasoned with scallions, seaweed, a dash of wasabi i think. The noodles were strong with a dense texture that didn't turn to mush in the hot broth. I slurped heartily and with much noise to make the chefs smile.

The best ramen I've ever had, stewing in a broth of miso.

Getting from Narita Airport to Downtown Tokyo

2007-12-27T11:48:00.000+08:00

For New Years, I'm heading north to Tokyo to ring in 2008 (I lucked out on my Philippine Airlines mileage). I'm staying with a good friend from grad school, Yu, who lives in Suginami-ku, Tokyo. She lives in the city with her family and she's graciously invited me to crash at her pad. Yu and I just had a quick chat and she gave me some pointers on how to get from Narita International Airport to the downtown.

She told me the least confusing way to get downtown is to hop on the Airport Limousine Service.

When you arrive at Narita Airport, having gone through the Customs area, just look for our friendly staff at our counters in the arrival lobby of Terminal 1 and 2. Busses from Narita Airport leave from the arrival lobby on the 1st floor. Tickets can be purchased at our counters for all our destinations, except for Kichijoji Station, of which tickets will be available at the "KEISEI" bus ticket counter located in the same lobby.

The service takes you to major hotels in the city. Brilliant alternative to taking the trains and a much cheaper choice over taxis. Our rendezvous point will be in the lobby of the Shibuyu Excel Hotel. So far I'm looking forward to earning some metropolis brownie points exploring the city, and hopefully making a day trip up north to Nikko for the hot springs.

Tomoko is now in Japan, and I'm hoping to meet up with her. Mike and Dana, other IPA'ers, will be arriving in Tokyo on the 3rd (sadly the day I leave).

Bohol Bee Farm Christmas

2007-12-26T17:22:00.000+08:00

'Find the bee van', we were instructed when we arrived in Tagbilaran, Bohol after a hectic trip from Cebu's port. Because it was the holidays we were only able to buy tickets for the upper deck-- the cheap seats. No matter-- I was relieved anyway not to be crammed in the icebox below, savoring instead the ocean breezes that whipped at us budget travelers and the piles of suitcases, pasalubong boxes, and other Christmas goodies we rode with. Being in the outside section made it easier to beat the rush off the boat and we made it to the tourist office unscathed.

This was where we got the call from Vicky's secretary who informed me to look for sign that said my name. "General DeGuzman" (I had texted her earlier to book a room under 'Gen DeGuzman', which they immediately thought was an abbreviation for the famous military official!). Vicky's son greeted us with a sign and a half smirk as he sized up the situation and realized I wasn't a decorated war hero.

Bohol on Christmas eve was rather wet and gloomy (rainy season hits the Visayas around this time), a far cry from my visit back in September when my younger sis was visiting from the States. We immediately knew that we wouldn't be venturing on any large scale outdoorsy tours and settled into our home and holiday playground at the Farm.

Everyone comes to Bohol for the resorts that sit pretty on white sandy beaches. In September we had gotten our fill, heading to Alona Beach and staying at a night at a bonafide beach resort (complete with cheesy decorated drinks). The Bohol Bee Farm doesn't really fit that bill-- more of a rustic place, charming with swathes of farmland and shrugging off the usually manicured touches. Being at the Farm feels a little bit like staying in a luxurious forest retreat with villas situated on the rocky cliff's edge overlooking endless water.

When we arrived, it was pretty packed-- families took over the larger houses while a smattering of couples and smaller families settled into the smaller units (called the Beehive). After an icy dip in the Farm pool, a tour of the new crops (whiffs of sage, basil, coriander, fennel, peppermint swirled in the air) and round of ping pong (hah! I had no idea that airy unassuming white ball could give you quite a workout!), we headed over to the new dining area by the pool (the construction of which had been completed just a month ago) for an elegant buffet dinner and holiday folkloric performance.

The dining hall was dressed to impress, adorned in lights and parols (star-shaped decorations, usually lanterns). Bee-shaped lanterns floated from the rafters. On the center stage was the Christmas centerpiece, a 15 foot triangle-cone formation wrapped in red raffia matting and sprinkled with lights. At 6:30 pm the buffet line was open. About 5 parties attended. Two Filipino families, a group of Peace Corps volunteers on vacation and their wide-eyed American relatives in tote, and a Danish couple and their lil' toddler.

While we settled into our tables, I noticed that the large family from Manila was toting around a person that looked familiar-- it was Satoko (fellow IPA'er)! She had been adopted by them while exploring Balicasag island off of Bohol and freaky coincidence they were vacationing at the Farm too! I think Satoko was equally surprised to see me there. She later told me that she decided to stay an extra day rather than travel back to Mindanao during Christmas day (good call!).

After dinner (a medley of tasty seafood lasagna, a spicy aromatic fish stew, honeyed BBQ sesame chicken, date and cassava bread, red rice, and lechon!) we watched the folkloric dance troupe made up of kids and teens from households near the Bee Farm's land get groovy. The dancing ended with the classic 'tinikling' dance, which has bamboo sticks slicing at your legs as you hop around . At end audience members were asked to participate. I tried my best but I probably looked like a limping freak.

After the dance performance, it was our turn to perform, with some parlor games. Winners were given treats from the Farm in nifty gift bags.

***
The interesting thing about the Bee Farm is that its workers and staff are all part of the community that resided on the land that Vicky bought for her Farm. With land distribution as a big issue in the Philippines, the Bee Farm is an interesting model. She allows the residents to stay, gives them space to do their handicrafts and a nice little market (the souvenir/gift shop is quite expansive and offers a range of products) for them to sell their goods. I'm not sure how the financial arrangement works but from an outsider's perspective it looks mutually beneficial (or more so than what would have been the case with a commercial developer). I think she also apportions a segment of the property for their own farming as well.

Overall, it was great to spend Christmas there, and even away from family it felt like there was a closeness and intimacy all around. Merry Christmas!

M-Banking: The Amazing All-in-One Cellphone

2007-12-17T16:03:00.000+08:00

Before my expat days, I wasn't much of a cellphone user. People who yapped away on their phones, destroying the peace with sprawling accounts of every little detail in their lives that everyone around them was forced to hear-- made my skin crawl. For about two years, I practiced cellphone abstinence, my cantankerous protest against annoying contracts and a creeping cellphone invasion. It baffled friends, my parents, who could only get in touch via landline and my answering machine.

These days, since my move to the Philippines, I'm a total convert. In a previous blog entry during my NGO stint, I wrote about the wonders of the cellphone as a tool for activists to mobilize and connect ('coup d'text'). Now there's another reason to wax poetic about the wonders of mobile telecom technology.

Since moving to the Philippines, my cellphone has been my constant companion. For work, I use it to keep in touch with my credit officers, the bank managers and microfinance product supervisors. It was indispensable when I would go out to the field with the surveyors for our financial diaries pilot in the urban sprawl of Manila. We'd disperse and Rean and I would help coordinate via text messaging. SMS is the lingua franca of communication-- faster, cheaper, and at times less enigmatic and cryptic than a phone call, especially when you're outside on the go or when there's a language barrier (not everyone is so confident with their English). If I want information fast, updates can be exchanged via text message. In use, it feels much like chat messaging. (I just checked my phone counter: I have sent 10,288 messages and received 8816 messages.)

Now's there's a new use for my little Nokia. As a wallet.

Financial Services: It's a phenomenon known as. Text messaging is the lingua franca here and access to financial services through the cell phone seems like the next evolutionary step, marrying mobile phone ubiquity with microfinance. It's no surprise then that m-banking is now a hot-topic in the microfinance world because it simplifies cash management for clients and banks. Green Bank just adopted GCash through Globe telecom (a mobile service provider and one that I use). Now credit officers can collect payments through their cellphones, bypassing the need to carry with them large sums of money.

Cash Transfers: For those millions of Filipinos working abroad and their families--remittance senders and receivers-- it's also a great innovation. Transfer services over telecom are much cheaper than the usual MTOs, such as Western Union, Pera Padala, LBC, and even some bank-to-bank fund transfers. Globe Telecom's GCash program only charges 1%. Before, if you were an OFW, you could send money via a bank wire transfer at a cost of 2 dollars or more and a clearing wait time of a couple of days. But with m-banking, you can text the cash from your phone to your sister's phone and the funds are cleared instantaneously.

Microenterprise Access to Banking Services (MABS), which offers technical assistance and training to rural banks in the Philippines, continues to push for innovation in M-banking.
Read more about GCash.

Other great reads on m-commerce, m-banking:

Article from The Economist:"A bank in every pocket?"
A blog on M-Commerce in the Philippines.
Press release on USAID's push for GCash through Chemonics International MABS program
Mobile Banking conference at Chemonics:

"According to John Owens -chief of party for MABS from Chemonics International- m-banking is the future of micro-finance and rural banking, especially in remote areas - and many people agree. With the increase in cell phone sales in the past years, more people have cell phones and therefore banking services have a broader market base in which to operate." -Ana Escalante

Toledo Beach Jaunt for the Branch Christmas Party

2007-12-14T18:16:00.000+08:00

No major travel these days. I missed the quarterly visits to the coastal towns in Leyte to monitor for the health insurance project. Rean, from Manila, covered for me mostly, going all the way to St. Bernard (not bad for a big city Manila kid!). I have to blame timing and a bad stomach right before my Stateside homecoming. I did my best to give her my tips and tricks for traveling and dealing with the branches.

When I returned to Cebu, I did get a chance to accompany the Talisay branch staff on their holiday jaunt. The branch and southern kiosks headed to the western part of Cebu island in Toledo city for an overnight at a beach. I went along with the staff, all 50+ people crammed inside three mini-SUVs and one multicab. We left on Saturday late afternoon and by the time we made it through the mountains it was sunset. I didn't quite understand why we didn't leave earlier but then realized that people weren't there for the beach but rather for the nighttime activities of dancing and singing.

In time for the sunset in Toledo.

Beach was mostly pebbles and bits of coral. Rough on the barefeet. I wore my sandals throughout.

Nerio is looking away. There's Kith, Tikio and Michael. They're trying to upstage my sunset.

Look!

About 30 minutes after we arrived.

That's Maricel and the Eric's little girl.

Kith had the right foot of one pair and the left foot of another pair of slippers stolen. So we mixed it up.

The dinner was catered. Here's the buffet table.

Gift exchanges.

Sir Eric, Stefan, and me.

Everyone pitches in for the grilled seafood. Or rather, the guys do. In the Philippines, the guys take charge of the cooking mostly.

Michael and I ham it up.

Kith ponders the evening.

I don't know why i'm grappling with my bag here.

The night ends for me early. I got bitten by a mystery bug (probably fire ants) and my hand got super swollen and itchy.

Ouch!

Sad Cats

2007-12-02T13:43:00.000+08:00

My cats say their good-byes. They do it by appearing sleepy and lounging around on my luggage and piles of 'pasalubong'. Here are Frasier and Niles; Cali was hiding (she's my camera shy kitty).

Frasier kicks it on my bed.

All my books that I won't be able to take with me. Not to mention that nice little flat-screen TV (it fits in my luggage!)

Frasier. Serious and grave.

Nilesy is the sentimental one. He refused to get off my suitcase.

Sleepy guy.

I love this little guy.

I wish I could take you with me!

Papa's B-day

2007-11-24T16:51:00.000+08:00

Today, November 23rd, my dad turned 54! We wanted to keep it small so we rounded up all the usual suspects (the same jokers from Thanksgiving day) and we headed out for a night out on the town.

Thanksgiving: Showtime

2007-11-23T11:47:00.000+08:00

Morning of Thanksgiving, the preparation continues. I'm the last one to get up, though, at 11am (I have jetlag as an excuse). Len is already underway with the casserole and potato gratin, but I've been charged with the brussel sprouts and the stuffing. My dad has the birds. Hurry!

The joyous mess.

Green bean casserole

Saute-ing the sausage and apples for the stuffing.

The stuffing right before it goes in the oven.

Mom hands me the celery.

Table prep.

Two chefs

Dinner!

More of the spread

Carmine, in all his bulldog glory, taking a nap.

We baked pumpkin pie for dessert. We serve the pie with freshly whipped cream.

The brussell sprouts.

Guests are gone. Time to drink the rest of the booze!

Len's more of the beer drinker in the family. As long as it's organic!

Mom's really happy her daughters are home.

Thanksgiving was fun...no major fights in the kitchen between head chef and sous chef, no major accidents (even though oven and power burners were in heavy use-- and lots of flour thrown about-- but I did nearly nick my finger slicing apples!).

Mom is happy she didn't have to cook anything and stress out.

Thanksgiving Part I

2007-11-22T13:31:00.000+08:00

The head chef arrives from Santa Cruz. We greet Len at the airport. I catch her paparazzi-style.

The homecoming.

The turkey, er, cat.

Now, get to work, chef!

I get my photo with the chef.

Dad and my sis.

Deep culinary concentration.

Cali stays above all the mayhem and is like, "WTF?"

Sunshine and Bicycles

2007-11-19T08:00:00.001+08:00

After the hike, we headed home, lounged around in the early morning sun. My mom, inspired I guess, decided to give the bicycle a shot (she's never learned how to ride!)...

The glories of my dad's garden.

Nilesy sneak attacks me!

Java jumps through hoops!

Papa polishes up the bikes.

My mom learning how to balance...Auntie Edna plays the patient instructor.

Whoa. I'm home! And wearing a sweater!

Java chills with me on the driveway as I watch my mom and laugh!

Auntie Edna is losing her patience....

Santa Margarita Trail, Fallbrook CA

2007-11-19T04:10:00.000+08:00

After the morning ride on the Harley and the fog breaking, we headed over to the Santa Margarita trail for a Sunday hike. We brought along Norbert's French bulldog, Carmine.

Harley Girl

2007-11-19T04:02:00.000+08:00

After 11 months of hitching rides on the bikes of bank credit staff in the Philippines, I think it's rather befitting that I would hitch a test ride on a classic piece of Americana during my visit home. Striking differences-- engine power and the freezing weather. My legs were shaking during the ride!

Norbert is our next-door neighbor.

Yup, I'm a motorcycle mama!

Off we go!

Leaving one home for another

2007-11-18T02:19:00.001+08:00

Passport, plane tix, jacket, scarf, backpack. Ready to go!

Good-bye Talisay, Cebu, hello Fallbrook, CA. I have just recovered from a mysterious stomach ailment that had me sleeping all week, and I'm now getting ready for the mind-numbing jetlag that awaits me!

Home in Fallbrook! Reuniting with my babies...there's Niles (aka "Nilesy Boy")

Frasier (aka "Fross", "Bigboy")

Taking over my bed

Cali girl.

She's gigantic! What have they been feeding you?

Niles wants to come inside.

Home sweet home. Our backyard. My dad has been planting new flowers

Fallbrook After the Ashes Benefit

2007-11-18T01:57:00.000+08:00

My little San Diego town is holding a benefit on Sunday, November 18th to help raise money for those who lost their homes during the fires last month (infamously known as the Rice Canyon fires).
http://www.fallbrookaftertheashes.com/

Sowing and Tilling in Fairview

2007-11-16T14:23:00.000+08:00

The past couple weeks, Kith and I have started growing a garden at the house in Fairview, Talisay. It's now Kith's predawn ritual, getting up at 5am to water the plants. We just started and hopefully in a couple of months we'll have some awesome blooms. Consider these the 'before' pictures.

Iloilo Tour and Afternoon on the Farm

2007-10-31T11:46:00.001+08:00

Back in Iloilo for the weekend, Rhap and the manager of the branch there, Titing (and his family) take a tour of the coastal cities south of the city. We stop at Mia-gao, famous for its UNESCO branded heritage church.

I felt self-conscious posing in front of the grand church... but then i saw a tour bus roll by with a gaggle of camera waving gawkers..

Rhap takes the picture with this taller vantage point...really quite arresting. The church was also once a fortress defending the island against pirates and raiders. Pretty cool history.

I got neck strain staring up.

***

Tour of Garin Farm: Garin Farm is an estate that features....farming and animal husbandry of all different ilk. It's quite an interesting concept. You feature the common produce and fruit produced in the area, as well as the livestock and turn it into a resort! We paid an entrance fee to see a banana plant, its latin name on a display label. OK it wasn't that bad...the most interesting display was an example of 'urban farming' (sadly i have no pic), a tableau of reused plastic containers and tires cheerfully arranged into a vegetable garden. There was even space for the piggery, chickens, and catfish. All you need for your cramped urban slum.

The display title of this exhibit was 'modern Ilonggo Farmer'. Notice the cellphone around his neck! Now that's a cutting edge farm dude.

***

Lunch at Rhap's farm: The best part of the day...we sojourned at Rhap's family farm for lunch.

Rhap's older sister in blue. We hit it off. She teaches elementary school in the mountains 2-3 hours a way, accessible only by jeepney and habal-habal (during the week, she stays in the mountains in a boarding house with the rest of the teachers because it's too expensive to commute back and forth)). She described how some of her pupils have never ventured down to the city and had never tasted ice cream. Their communities didn't have access to electricity until recently.

Road behind Rhap's house.

Pretty cat, but he was not too happy about me following him around. Niles' cranky Pinoy twin!

View from the porch into the backyard.

Titing's kids.

Rhap picks off some pomelo.

Mama chicken and her baby chicks right behind her.

I can't get enough of these cuties!

Rice field.

Mama goat feeding her babies.

To the river! Or what was once a river...the government reduced the quarry (taking soil/sand to create a landfill for the new Iloilo airport) and the water levels dropped. Fish population decimated.

Still, farmers take their beasts of burden down to the water to drink and bathe.

Roxas, Capiz Sightseeing

2007-10-31T11:00:00.000+08:00

Roxas in Capiz is the seafood capital of the Philippines! It's nestled in the northern part of Panay island, east of the tourist spot of Boracay (where Anj and I were) in Western Visayas. I visited for work, checking out the expansion of our group vs. individual liability project. The manager, Andik, and the BULAK supervisor, Rhap, were itching to see the reputedly 'oldest church bell in Asia' at the Santa Monica church in Panay south of Roxas city, so in between meetings we took a trip out there. Here a few pics:

Making the climb up to see the bell.

And finally...the bell!

Andik, me, and Rhap: Tourists for the hour.

Underneath the bell. Graffiti.

There was no room to get the entire thing in the picture. It was cramped in the bell tower.

The gorgeous view.

I got a bit of vertigo.

Santa Monica-- there she is! Circa 1780s.

Bantayan Island

2007-10-16T18:41:00.001+08:00

Last weekend I took a quick trip to Bantayan island, after my plans to head to Tacloban fell through. Just a 30 minute boat ride from San Remigio, Hagnaya in the north of Cebu to Sante Fe, Bantayan. To get to San Remigio we took a 3 hour bus ride from the North Bus Terminal, near SM Mall in the city and then slowly crawled our way up Cebu island.

Bantayan is perfect for those who don't want a tourist scene (just stay away from the resorts close to the pier-- Korean tour groups flock there! and don't go during Holy Week in April-- everything doubles in price). We asked a guy with a motorcycle to take us to a few places (the act of marshaling such an exclusive ride is called, 'going pakyaw'). We spent about an hour looking at four different places around Sugar Beach in Santa Fe. Many of them were fine-- clean and basic, but completely devoid of personality and rooms tiny. Some places were still being constructed and the reception was peddling us the completed parts for around 1200 pesos a night. We really wanted to avoid the noise of chainsaws and the smell of paint, as well as views of gutted edifices, so we kept looking. Finally we settled on a resort of only 6 villas, completely deserted. The driver said that only congressmen and senators had stayed there. Hahaha. Pricey yeah. Definitely not a budget traveler's place. But since we were only there the weekend, we decided, hell, let's splurge.

It's called 'Hoyohoys' (means breeze), owned by an expat Swiss dude and his Filipino wife. It turned out to be a better deal than we thought considering that we were the only guests so really we were paying for exclusivity (and the fine 400 thread count sheets). No tour groups here. In fact, the cook/reception guy, Elmer, explained that they don't rent out their villas to tour groups to avoid the "pollution and chaos". We haggled our way to a 20% discount (ask politely about "low season" rates) and settled in. Ridiculously worth it but I am a sucker for fine linen and a good mattress.

Getting around. Rent a motorbike! It's so easy! The roads are awesome for touring around and completely navigable. Views are gorgeous. Tree lined streets. Mountain views. Bantayan received a 'Clean and Green' award last year we were told. We toured around the island (courtesy of Zaldy of Green Bank who happens to be from Bantayan-- he offered to show us around) and ended up in Madridejos, a town with amazing deserted beach called "Enting", where islands of sand appeared around low tide. We had ourselves a seafood picnic out in the middle of the ocean, perched on our sandy knolls. Perfect!

It's cheesy but we went to a seaside resto with funky drinks dressed with umbrellas. The guy who owned the place is a German expat named Robert. He welcomed us personally and was so charming that he got me to promise that I would go back there to have my wedding reception whenever I finally got hitched.

Robert is also partially the chef, having been schooled in Thailand. Notice the cornucopia of spices often lacking in Filipino cooking. That's definitely the Thai influence all the way.

Skimboarders in the distance. Beaches around Bantayan are shallow or just have long periods of low tide -- perfect for the avid skimboarder.

View from Robert's resto again.

Room at Hoyohoys.

One of 6 villas. We paid 4000 a night. It's a steal or splurge depending on your mood.

Me on my little perch overlooking the water.

Daytime view of the beach by Hoyohoy's.

Villas.

Paradise central.

Roads throughout Bantayan.

Crazy shells for good eats. Good for fertility we were told! Hahaha. We ate them raw.

Cutting them up.

Open sesame!

Out in the deep checking out an area where fisherman grow fish. Aquaculture.

Peace, man! On the pump boat

'Naked islands' (sandbars). They miraculously appear from the ocean during low tide. There are pockets of these all over Enting beach. Sugar Beach back in Sante Fe also has a great sandbar area.

Just us and the birds. Deserted!

Funky rock formations? Is it dead coral?

Sunset.

Fairview Merriment and Dancing: The Round-up

2007-10-16T14:34:00.000+08:00

A medley of photos of various Fairview Village moments the past couple of weeks:

Dinner at the house with bank staff. Kith cooks 'escabeche', a sweet and sour fish stew concoction.

***

Our barangay captain (otherwise known as 'the Captain' for short) celebrating his b-day. He shows off his moves, which consisted mostly of gyrating his legs one at a time in circles-- an homage to Elvis?

Dancing with one of the guests.

More dancing!

Nerio raises his glass in a languid gesture of sophistication.

Gagay belts it out like it's his job. I love the Christmas tree in the back! I heard they put it up in September.

Zaldy shows off his folk dancing moves. He says it's so odd that it attracts the girls like flies. Hmm. OK, I'll take your word for it!

More dancing! Kith is probably the worse dancer at Green Bank. But he gets an A+ for effort.

Pouting while dancing.

Profiting from the Poor?

2007-10-11T17:23:00.001+08:00

I got into a discussion with a friend about microfinance and the work I do here with our many MFI partners (the one I work with now-- Green Bank; First Macro Bank back in Manila). He asked me to define it for him and I went into my best spiel. In response, he brought up the classic arguments speculating about the merits of microfinance, many that denounce it as a fad that preys on the neediest. 'Don't these banks just formalize the whole loan shark scheme?' This is the more obvious counter-argument to shoot down (more nuanced contrarian arguments are addressed in a previous entry).

Anyway, the debate got me worked up again! I ran across this article a while back (and interestingly enough it cites our bosses-- Dean and JZ-- and the work that IPA does!)...it's related to the silly question of profiting at the expense of the poor or leaving the poor in debt-traps. Here's an excerpt from the Economist that I will post here to calm me down:

Why this hostility? To profit from lending to the poor, critics say, is to prey on the most vulnerable, at their most vulnerable moment. Faced with desperate customers, loan sharks can charge well over the odds, even when the risk of default is slight. The money they proffer is often squandered on spurious consumption, critics say, rather than productive investments that would help the borrower repay his debts. Easy credit thus tempts people into a damaging spiral of indebtedness.

But economists take a bit more convincing. If loans hurt the poor, why do they take them? Surely they are capable of looking after their own interests. Alex Tabarrok, an influential economics blogger, thinks the anti-usury lobby are “credit snobs”, who think that credit is something only the rich can handle.
Some critics of usury appeal to psychology not snobbery, however. The “behavioural” economists have shown that people's decisions often conflict with the plans they had laid for themselves. When planning for the future, people are willing to defer gratification, forgoing smaller, earlier rewards in favour of bigger, later ones. But when choosing in the present, they give up huge future benefits for immediate gratification. If they anticipate their own weakness, people may quite rationally chop up their credit cards, or tie money up in illiquid assets. It is the financial equivalent of avoiding restaurants with irresistible desserts.

Some governments have concluded that by denying expensive credit to the poor, they would be doing them a favour. In America, many states have crimped payday lending by imposing anti-usury laws or restrictions on lending terms. In Japan, interest-rate caps have, in effect, wiped out much of the formal consumer-lending industry.

In poorer countries, governments are ambivalent. On the one hand, they are anxious to subsidise microfinance, extending small-business loans further than the market allows. But they take the opposite attitude towards consumer credit, imposing interest-rate caps that stop lenders reaching as many people as they otherwise might. South Africa this year tightened curbs on reckless lending and overborrowing.

***
Is the South African government right to think that credit has gone too far? Rather than relying on theology or theory to answer this question, a recent working paper offers some rare evidence. Dean Karlan, a Yale economist who is co-director of the Financial Access Initiative, and Jonathan Zinman, of Dartmouth College, studied a profit-seeking lender that served some of South Africa's poorer neighbourhoods. Suspecting that its credit standards were too strict, the lender was willing to experiment with a looser provision of credit. It asked its loan officers in Cape Town, Port Elizabeth and Durban to reconsider 325 out of 787 applicants who had narrowly missed out on approval for a loan. The lucky 325 were chosen at random—nothing distinguished them from the remaining 462, except the luck of the draw. This allowed the researchers to establish a causal link between the loan and changes in the lives of the applicants.

Most of the new customers took a four-month loan at an annual interest rate of about 200%: a 1,000-rand loan, for example, would be repaid in four monthly instalments of 367.50 rand. For the bank, the study proved the wisdom of stretching its lending limits. The new clients were profitable, if not as profitable as the borrowers already on their books. The authors reckon the bank made a gain of at least 201 rand per loan.

Did these profits come at the expense of the poor? On the contrary. Despite the demanding terms on offer, those reconsidered for a loan seemed to prosper. Six to twelve months later, they were less likely to go hungry, and their chances of being in poverty fell by 19%. Not coincidentally, they were also more likely to have kept their jobs, perhaps because the credit helped them to overcome emergencies that might otherwise have forced them to abandon their posts. About a fifth of them, for example, spent their loan on transport, such as buying or repairing a car that they might have needed to get to work.

Camping Advice from the Baby Sis, the Seasoned Trekker in the fam...

2007-10-04T18:04:00.000+08:00

Getting a bit nervous. Camping is serious business. Straight from the expert:

"So you've decided to go camping...Well i saw the list you have on your blog and it needs to be refined a bit.

First, if you're going with a group of people it's a good idea to share cookware so you don't have unnecessary weight in your pack. Second, instead of a bulky flashlight you'll need a headlamp.

Third, you don't need deoderant! that'll take up room and add to the weight of your pack. Fourth you need a pack cover to cover your entire pack since it'll be monsoon season soon.

Fifth if you're going to be doing river crossings you'll need sandals that have a back to them. Sixth, all you need is one bottle of soap, preferably Dr Bronners to clean yourself with--if you decide to bathe in a river. Make sure you pack a small light weight towel--a regular towel will take up space.

Eight, be prepared for rain--it's a good idea to put things inside your pack in a waterproof satchel--especially your clothes.

Don't forget sleeping bag and tent--it's best to share a tent with someone, so one can carry the poles and the other can carry the tent.

Swiss army knife is good to have.

Don't pack too many clothes--I say if you're going for less than five days just pack two shirts, one pair of pants, sweater, jacket, beanie, gloves."

Countdown to the Climb up!

2007-10-01T16:41:00.000+08:00

Since last year, when I first visited Davao and saw the grand mountain under a veil of clouds in the distance, I've been boasting about doing the climb. Yes, I want to climb Mt. Apo! A simple enough and rather smug declaration. It was on my wishlist then and has been all this time. Now, after being connected with Pete's friend, Jing, in a month's time I may be crossing it off.

Apo is the Philippines' tallest mountain, at around 10,000 feet. You start the climb in Kidapawan, 30 km outside of Davao if I have my facts straight (how prepared am I??). The climb takes about a week depending on the group, and our contingent of neophytes and experienced climbers will go during the last week of October/early November, during the All Souls and All Saints holidays.

I'm not really sure what to expect. I've only experienced the Philippines so far at sea level and I'm ready for a change in altitude. Hah! In fact, it'll be great to stand at the peak and say, 'today I'm one of the tallest human beings on Philippine soil'. Not a bad feat for little me. I'm ready for the bucolic scenery, rivers, lakes, and hot springs!

But first preparation. Jing gave me a list:

GEAR (aside from what you'll already be wearing) # extra shirts, #
extra
pairs of shorts, # extra pairs of socks * sandals or rubber slippers *
raingear (jacket/raincoat) * gloves or mittens (optional) * cap or any
headgear * cold weather gear

TOILETRIES
* towelette/towel  
* toilet paper 
* toothbrush 
* toothpaste 
* comb 
* deodorant
* mosquito repellant
* all purpose paper aka tissue paper

OTHERS
* trail food 
* pocketknife
* alcohol 
* personal medicine 
* pocket money (for commuting, etc.)
* extra plastic bags 
* camera (optional) 
* flashlight with extra batteries
* sleeping bag or blanket
* Tent
* Cooking Set

It would be more comfortable if things are all in one backpack, and
there is no shoulder bag or hand carry items to keep the hands free.
Do not bring any bag other than a backpack. Also, unnecessary heavy
items like thermos bottles, glass bottles and your Teddy Bear should
not
be brought.
Waterproof them by putting individual or grouped items inside sealed
plastic bags. Wear sturdy rubber shoes with traction or hiking shoes.

What NOT to wear: 
* leather shoes 
* tennis shoes or any footwear without appropriate traction

In contrast, Greg M. did the climb the "no-brainer way". In his campfire tale, he and a group of his UP soccer buddies decided to do the climb for some male-grunting/bonding. Their gear consisted of rum and gin, much to the horror of other climbing groups to whom they frequently begged for water and other rudimentary supplies. They ended up sleeping on steep inclines with "trees and shrubs between their legs" to prevent from slipping and falling to their deaths. Craziness...I wonder if they all sported mullets...

Anyway, I think I will go the way of over-prepared than under...

Dress Up with the Fam

2007-09-26T15:51:00.000+08:00

Over the weekend (another anecdote on our Tacloban stay), my auntie Precy decided to organize a big photo shoot since all the Villasin cousins were there together at the same time-- a rare occurrence. The stipulation-- we had to dress up all in white. Don't ask me why (we don't argue with our aunt!). I ended up with the frilly ruffles shirt (my sister said I looked like a cake!). After the photo shoot we all had lunch at Raphael's Garden outside of Tacloban City.

Getting Groovy in Tacloban

2007-09-25T18:40:00.001+08:00

After my big meeting in Ormoc with Leyte Green Bank managers last Saturday, I took off to Tacloban to join my sis. On a whim and because Len had never experienced disco here, we decided to head to "Inzomnia", the big night life hotspot in town. My sister was so excited she rattled around on her bar stool and finally hit the floor before anyone else inside and was the catalyst that night. "Do you want to dance??" she asked in earnest to about 10 people. She enjoyed herself silly...

Len Visits Tacloban

2007-09-24T17:58:00.000+08:00

I goaded my little sis to visit our family in Tacloban for her last week in the Philippines and the little one took off on her own. I was so proud! She took the ferry from Cebu to Ormoc and then was met by aunt who picked her up at the port with her driver, Ramil. Len did her tour of Tacloban city. It had been about 12 years since she had visited.

My grandmother's house. Memories galore.

The driveway at 285 Sagkahan.

May aunt, Gerry, and his gf, Nell. At my aunt's house in Nula-tula outside city proper.

Her pups

Santo Nino shrine.

At Dulag beach. For kiting...

Love the view. Bleak. Black sand. Deserted. Beautiful. Better than any beach in Boracay.

No visit to Tacloban is complete without a visit to the San Juanico bridge linking Leyte to Samar.

Len conquers Tacloban!

Somewhere in Samar, close to Marabut

Private pier connected to my aunt's rest house in Marabut

The house.

Top floor

Inside...

Macarthur Park.